Browsing Tag

Habsburg

Travel

奧匈帝國政治核心 Hofburg, the political heart of the Austria-Hungarian Empire

統治奧匈帝國的Habsburg 皇朝長達700年,皇宮整個建築群共有18 棟建築物,超過19個中庭、庭園,共有2500房間。主建築物包括新王宮、舊王宮、宰相宮、西西博物館、Albertina、國家圖書館、Spanish Riding School和Michaelerplatz 等等。經歷了7世紀的皇宮建築風格也隨著不同的君主喜好而變遷。

The 700-year-old Hofburg dynasty ruled the Austria-Hungarian Empire. Its palace was comprised of 18 buildings, more than 19 atriums, and a total of 2,500 rooms. The main buildings include the new palace, the old palace, the prime minister palace, the Sisi Museum, Albertina, the National Library, Spanish Riding School and Michaelerplatz and so on. You can see the change of architectural style with the different monarch preferences over the past 7 centuries.

國家圖書館Nationalbibliothek,館藏230萬書冊及許多音樂家手稿。

The National Library Nationalbibliothek, holds 2.3 million books and many musician manuscripts.

宰相宮Reichskanzleitrakt,經過再到皇帝寢宮、西西博物館及銀器館。

The Prime Minister Palace Reichskanzleitrakt, then to the imperial palace, Sisi Museum and the Museum of Silverware .

皇宮宴會和銀器館Hoftafel-und-Silberkammer,館內陳列了皇帝用的餐具和銀器。

The imperial ballroom and the Museum of Silverware Hoftafel-und-Solberkammer. Exhibited a collection of imperial tableware and silverware.

當時國宴長枱的餐具擺設。

The table setting of the state banquet.

長枱還放滿花蕊及水晶。

Floral arrangements and crystals of the table setting.

館內還放了紀念Sisi 皇后和國皇結婚的餐具,及其他意大利銀器、瓷器,精緻程度令人目不暇給。

Amazed with a collection of imperial tableware of Queen Sisi’s wedding to Italian silverware and porcelain.

 

西西博物館 Sisi Museum,紀念全奧地利最美麗的女人!

她不僅以美麗動人而聞名,其悲劇一生也為人津津樂道。這裙是她當日穿上加冕成為皇后的裙子,背後是她加冕後的畫像。

Sisi Museum – memorial for the most beautiful woman in Vienna.

She was not only renowned for her beauty, but also for her tragic life. She wore this dress when she became the Queen. Her coronation portrait in the back.

 

博物館收藏著西西皇后每一個生活細節、畫作及遺物與服裝,每個館內也反映著她的性格,對禮儀的反抗、兒子死去的憂愁,對瘦身的狂熱,對長達至膝秀髮的呵護,及最後被刺殺做終結。

You can learn every detail of the Queen from the paintings, her belongings and her costume at the Sisi Museum. Each exhibition zone has reflected her characters and emotions such as her anti-ritual attitude, the sorrow of her son’s death, the passion for slimming to the delicate treatment of her long hair to her knees, and the story of assassination in the end.

建築群Albertina 前身是皇室招待客人的居 所,如今成為藝術館,這裡收藏著名Dürer 雕刻與畫作,如野兔 (The Hare), 及舉世知名的藝術家Monet 及Picasso 的展覽,內裏Miro 畫廊是我見過最整全的收藏。喜愛印象派及後印象派的藝術愛好者,不容錯過。

Albertina, formerly known as the royal residence for the guests, has become a museum of arts where you can see the collection of the famous Dürer sculptures and paintings, such as the Hare, as well as the exhibitions of the world’s renowned artists Monet and Picasso. The Miro Gallery has housed the most complete collection I’ve ever seen. It is a must-visit spot for fans of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art lovers.

 

Dürer 野兔 (The Hare) 畫作,Dürer以極其精準和細膩的線條捕足野兔的神態,如照片般寫實。

The Hare, Dürer’s masterpiece. It is famous for its extremely precise and delicate lines which captured the essence of a hare demeanor, as real as a photo.

 

前身為皇室御用招待國賓的地方,到處裝修的美輪美奐。

A dining room where the imperial royal hosted their VIPs. Magnificent interior deco everywhere.

Albertina 內各大小偏廳用色古雅,很喜歡灰黃色為主題的偏廳。

The use of classic colours in every pavilion of Albertina. Love the grey themed pavilion.

沿路上會看到一個接一個不同主題的偏廳。

Different themed pavilions along the way.

 

迷你版宴會廳。不失大方高貴。

An elegant mini ballroom.

其中一個以全黃與金色的偏廳,窗上掛滿各種馬的油畫。

A pavilion of yellow and gold. A collection of horse paintings by the windows.

小長廊的一角,很撫媚。

A charming corner of the tiny but long corridor.

很適合自拍一下吧。

Time for selfie!

 

Monet 的Water Lily Pond (1917-1919) 及其他重要作品也於 Albertina 展出。

Monet’s Water Lily Pond (1917-1919) and other works were available at Albertina.

Monet的 House Among the Roses (1925)。

Monet’s House Among the Roses (1925).

Monet 的View of Vetheuil (1881)。

Monet’s View of Vetheuil (1881).

 

Picasso 的Woman in Green Hat (1947)。

Picasso’s Woman in Green Hat.

 

Picasso 的Still Life with Guitar (1942)。

Picasso’s Still Life with Guitar (1942).

 

Picasso 的Glass and Apple (1911) (左),The Playing Cards (1912) (右)。

Picasso’s Glass and Apple (1911) (left),The Playing Cards (1912) (right).

 

Miro 於Albertina 作品展出超過100件畫作。此作品命名為 Women in front of the Sun (1949), Joan Miro。

In Albertina, you can find over 100 pieces of Miro’s art pieces.

Women in front of the Sun (1949), Joan Miro.

 

Travel

咖啡文化。 風韻猶存 Coffee Culture with Long Standing History

維也納咖啡館源自由來已久的文化。若要體會奧地利人生活的精髓,一定要置身於當地的咖啡館。你會感受舒適、悠閒的氣氛,並且與世界接軌的感覺。奧地利人喜歡與朋友到咖啡聚會、看報紙或作思想上的交流 。

Café in Vienna represented a long-standing culture. To experience the essence of Austrian life, be sure to stay in a local cafe. You will feel comfortable and relaxed with the atmosphere, and the feeling of convergence with the world. Austrians like spend their time with friends, read newspaper or make some intellectual conversations at café.

咖啡館歷史

一切源於一袋咖啡豆。1683年土耳其入侵維也納,遺留一袋當時相當昂貴的咖啡豆於城閘。當時皇帝King Jan III 把豆交給軍官 Jerzy Franciszek Kulczycki。他把牛奶及糖加進咖啡內,竟成了芳香馥郁的飲品,其後便開了第一間咖啡館。及至18世紀,咖啡館已成為上流社會的時尚,音樂家如貝多芬、莫扎特到咖啡館作公開表演;商家、政治家、文青或音樂愛好者、廚師等也有屬於自己的一家咖啡館。多得Habsburg 皇朝對咖啡及蛋糕的喜愛,宏偉的咖啡館如Café Central, Sperl & Café Landtmann 於19世紀開幕,室內全用大理石或雲石桌子、水晶燈和精緻的餐椅,非常雅緻。咖啡館已於2011年被UNESCO 列入世界非物質文化遺產。如果參觀完博物館,或行街時想找個地方休息,不妨去高貴而優雅的咖啡館小歇閒聊,感覺無比放鬆。

The History of Café

Everything comes from a bag of coffee beans. In 1683, when Turkey invaded Vienna, a bag of expensive coffee beans was left at the city gate. King Jan III passed on the beans to Officer Jerzy Franciszek Kulczycki. He put the milk and sugar into the coffee which turned into a drink of fragrance. He thus opened the first coffee shop in Vienna. Until the 18th century, café became a fashion icon for the upper class. Musicians such as Beethoven and Mozart make their appearance in cafés. People from businessmen, politicians, the intellectual youth, music lovers to chefs would have their own coffee shops. Thanks to the passion of coffee and cakes of the Habsburg dynasty, the Café Central, Sperl & Café Landtmann were opened in the 19th century.

You can still find the delicate interior design with the marble walls, marble tables, chandeliers and sophisticated dining furniture. The Café was listed as the UNESCO’s World Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2011. If you would like to chill out a bit after a museum visit or shopping, have a coffee break in an elegant café in town. It’s just so relaxing!

從1876年開始,Café Central 已成為眾多藝術家、作家流連的場所。這棟是由Ferstel 公爵官邸改建而成的咖啡館,入口有世界名作家Peter Attenberg 的人像坐在椅上,以作紀念。音樂家如貝多芬、舒伯特、約翰史特勞斯父子,畫家如Klimt 也曾是座上客。

Since 1876, Café Central has become a hub for artists and writers. This café was converted from the residence of the Duke of Ferstel. You can see the iconic statue of the world’s famous writer

Peter Attenberg sitting in the chair by the entrance. Musicians such as Beethoven, Schubert, John Strauss and his son, painters such as Klimt were one of the guests.

當晚急不及待,點了奧地利知名的Wiener Schnitzel。

Can’t wait to order the Vienna’s signature Wiener Schnitzel.

 

Café Central 內的甜點與蛋糕,是咖啡的絕配。

The desserts and cakes of Café Central, what a perfect match with coffee.

絕色Café Demel, 高貴而又有氣派的裝修,精緻的蛋糕街知巷聞,店內售賣糖果的一角,很夢幻。

The stunning Café Demel – with noble and stylish interior deco and famous cakes. And how fantastic the candy corner was!

店內換了秋季及主題的陳設。

Displaying the theme of fall.

Demel 的蛋糕,多不勝數,必需留肚品嚐滋味。

Must leave your quota for the colourful cakes of Demel.

坐在吧頭,細味咖啡館內一事一物。

Appreciate the every bits and bites at the bar table.

館內提供多款午餐及小吃。

Lunch and snack menu. With a variety of options.

點了傳統的維也納咖啡及pate。

Classic Vienna coffee and pate.

再吃知名Apfelstrudel。

Echo with the renowned Apfelstrudel.

Café Demel 後的糕點廚房是給客人觀看各式甜點的製造過程。

Visitors are free to take a look at the making of desserts behind the scene from the bakery room behind.

Café Sacher 是維也納五星酒店Hotel Sacher 內,裝潢亮麗。Viennese 咖啡很滑很滋味。Ham Salad 比我想像中大。

Café Sacher is a charming 5-star hotel in the heart of Vienna. Viennese coffee was very silky. The ham Salad was bigger than I thought.

 

這裡著名的Sachertorte, 是到維也納必吃的甜品。它是風味特別的朱古力蛋糕,上層是朱古力片,朱古力醬包著朱古力海綿夾心蛋糕,夾心內有兩層杏桃醬,旁邊再擺上忌廉平衡朱古力的甜味,每一口也是完美配合。

You must not miss the Vienna’s signature dessert Sachertorte here. It’s a special flavor of chocolate cake. The upper layer with chocolate chips, chocolate sponge cake wrapped with chocolate sauce, sandwiched with two layers of apricot sauce. The chocolate sweetness was balanced with the cream next to it… what a perfect blend!

 

不容錯過皇帝煎餅(Kaiserchmarrn),深受Franz Josef 1的喜愛而得名,弄碎的鬆餅上洒上糖粉,配以李子醬,熱騰騰奉上,口感鬆軟,充滿幸福感。

Not to miss his majesty Franz Josef 1’s favourite dessert – Kaiserschmarrn.  A rustic and fulfilling dessert made with pastry with icing sugar sprinkle on top, served with chutney on a hot pan.

 

Art

維也納國立美術館 Vienna Kunsthistorishches Museum

這裡世界第四大博物館,館藏Habsburg 皇朝數百年收藏的珍品。完整地保留古羅馬至埃及及文藝復興時期的雕塑及畫作。而我最推薦是Picture Gallery。看一看 Old Manter Paintings 以足夠你看半天。Picture Gallery 內有2個重點,第一個是Dutch、Flemish及 German painting。畫家有Durer、Rubens、Rembrandt、Vermeer 、Van Dyck 及Pieter Bruegel the Elder。而第二個推薦是Italian, Spanish French Painting 。重點畫家包括Titian, Veronese、Tintoretto 、Raphael 的巨作 Madonna & the Meadow (1506)、Caravaggio;著名西班牙畫家如Valazquez、法國的Poussin 及英國的Gainsborough 的名作亦可於這裡看到。圖中是Museum 內的餐室,在這個環境下吃個午餐,十分值得!

This is the world’s fourth largest museum with the collection of Habsburg dynasty treasures over the past hundreds of years. It holds the complete preservation of sculptures and paintings from the ancient Rome, Egypt and the Renaissance. And I would recommend the Picture Gallery where you can spend a half day just with the Old Masters’ Paintings. The first highlight in the Picture Gallery would be the Dutch, Flemish & German paintings. Painters include Durer, Rubens, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Vermeer and Pieter Bruegel the Elder. The second I would recommend would be the section of Italian, Spanish & French Painting. Key artists include Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto, Raphael’s masterpiece “Madonna & the Meadow (1506) as well as Caravaggio. You can also find a collection of masterpieces such as the famous Spanish painter Valazquez, the French artist Poussin as well as Gainsborough from the United Kingdom. It would be worthwhile if you can plan a lunch in the breathtaking museum dining room illustrated in the photo!

國立美術館是由建築師Gottfried Semper 設計,屬於新古典式風格(Neo classicism)。

The National Museum of Arts was designed by the architect Gottfried Semper, which was an icon of the Neo-classicism.

館內大廳由樓梯連接至不同樓層,你一入內已被大理石柱,拱形天花及精緻石像Theseus Defeating the Centaur (1805) 迷著了。

The hall connects to different floors by stairs. And you would probably be fascinated by the marble columns, vaulted ceilings and delicate stone statues like the Theseus Defeating the Centaur (1805).

再往後望,你會看到舉世聞名的Klimt 兄弟留世的作品,於拱門與石柱之間被金照耀著的希臘羅馬女神和埃及人像。

Looking back, you will see the world’s famous works of the Klimt brothers between the arches and the pillars of the Greek goddess of golden ambiance as well as the Egyptian portrait.

很喜愛這博物館,雖不及Lourve大,但收藏的珍品有很高的藝術價值,而且沒有人潮,可慢慢細嚐。

In love with this museum. It’s smaller than the Lourve, but you can appreciate the best selection of different periods. And you can enjoy the peace as much as you want with no crowds.

Italian, Spanish及 French Painting 的一間房。牆上展示舊式展覽方法。

One of the rooms inside of the Italian, Spanish & French Paintings. The wall exhibits in old-fashioned style of displaying art pieces.

Raphael 的Madonna & the Meadow (1506) 於文藝復興高峰時期的作品,不容錯過,此作品展現了當時的特色,例如精心計算的構圖,綠色的原野連著不同人物,手連耶穌、聖母的小腿成對角線,眼神凝視主角,背後的天空像光環(halo), 遠景亦無限。畫家亦善用大量象徵主義,例如Poppy seeds代表耶穌的感性及復活。

Not to miss Raphael’s Madonna & the Meadow (1506), a classic icon of the high Renaissance period. Features such as well-calculated composition, green fields attached to different characters, hand in hand with Jesus, diagonal line of the Lady and her leg, eyes staring at the main character, the sky background like a halo with a vision of infinity. The painter also used a collection of symbolism, such as Poppy seeds on behalf of Jesus’ sensibility and resurrection.

Vermeer 的 The Art of Painting (1665) 是屬於Dutch 油畫黃金時期的傑作。主角是他畫家本人,女主角是 Clio,Muse of History,作品是表現他自然的畫工,光線涉 進空間,地磚和窗簾有層次地引領我們的視線到2個主角,更透過室內的物件表達景深,室內的物件如地圖、吊燈、書等代表畫家熟識及運用各種象徵主義(Symbolism)。

Vermeer’s The Art of Painting (1665) is a masterpiece of the Dutch oil painting’s golden age. The protagonist was his painter himself, the actress was Clio, Muse of History. The influx of light into the room is to create space and the floor tiles and curtains led our sight to the two main characters. You can see how the painter mastered the art of symbolism, for example, the expression of depth through interior displays like maps, chandeliers, books.

Correggio 的Jupiter and Io (1530) 於晚文藝復興時期得作品,感性而誘人,Jupiter 化作灰色的雲引誘Io的一刻,她整個人被雲抱著,頭側,嘴張開,手把拉著Jupiter。Correggio把她的皮膚畫到白得像白磁,並以白的對比再增加她皮膚的柔軟感,此畫影響了後期Mannerism 及 Baroque 時期人物的繪畫方法。

Correggio Jupiter and Io (1530) was an icon in the late Renaissance period. Sensual and seductive. You can feel it with Jupiter turning into a grey cloud to seduce Io – her body cuddled by the cloud, leaning head and opening mouth, pulling Jupiter. Correggio portrayed her skin as white as porcelain, while the white contrast illustrated the softness of her skin. All these influenced the way of portraits of the later Mannerism and Baroque paintings.

Pieter Bruegel 的The Tower of Babel (1563) 提示人類在世上只是一瞬即逝的個體,沒有一樣東西是永恆的。

The Tower of Babel (1563) by Pieter Bruegel suggested that man is a fleeting individual in the world and that nothing is eternal.

Ruben’s Cymon & Iphigenia (1617) 講述一個沒接受過太多教育的Cymon 愛上了高貴的 Iphigenia 而勤奮學習,最後成為一個優雅而有學識的男人,娶了Iphigenia。這畫用了大量寫生做背景及靜物描寫,是典型Flemish 的風格。

Ruben’s Cymon & Iphigenia (1617) was about a love story of Cymon and Iphigenia. Cymon was uneducated but turned into an educated and elegant gentleman with his hard work after falling in love with the noble Iphigenia, and got married in the end. This painting demonstrated a lot of sketches in the background and still objects, which is typical in Flemish style.

Travel

戀上維也納。天上人間Heaven on Earth – Vienna

Habsburg 皇朝600年盛世歷史、世界文化遺產、世界音樂之都、咖啡文化、坐擁世界四大博物館之一、藝術、美饌…通通融薈在一起的一個城市。日與夜在這城市大街小巷遊走,感受了人生一次最美、最自由的旅程。雖然Vienna未必是香港人歐遊的首選,但當你在這兒逗留多幾天,你便可知道住在這裡的奧地利人的生活質素有多高;整個城市提供多元文化、藝術、美酒佳餚、現代化的交通建設、安全而寧靜的街道等配套,四處還被自行車的小徑包圍著,難怪被選為世上10個首選居住的城市!

A city of Habsburg Dynasty with 600 years of history, the world’s cultural heritage, the home of the world’s music, coffee culture, with the world’s fourth largest museum, art, delicacy…I am glad to enjoy one of the most beautiful and freest journey in my life wandering around in the city day and night. While Vienna may not be the first choice for Hong Kongers, you can feel that the Austrian people living here are enjoying high standard of living if you are able to stay here for a few more days.

The city offers you with multiculturalism, art, wine and food, modern transport infrastructure, safe and quiet streets, not limiting to bike trails surrounding. No wonder Vienna has been selected as one of the top 10 cities for living!

Spanish Riding School

舉世聞名的Spanish Riding School 是歐洲最歷史悠久的騎術學校,當日剛巧到步是星期日,一落機便趕至看難得一見的Lipizzaner 貴族馬dressage。請一定要提早一個月前於網上訂票,否則一定摸門釘。

The world’s famous Spanish Riding School is the oldest riding school in Europe. The day happened to be a Sunday that I visited. I rushed to see the rare dressage by Lipizzaner, the aristocratic horse upon arrival. Please be sure to book one month in advance online if you don’t want to miss the chance.

出場時會向觀眾致敬。

Paying tribute to the audience in the beginning.

馬匹隨著音樂準備表演。

The horses were ready to perform with the music.

當日坐在第一層,旁邊是一對英籍夫妻,資深馬術愛好者,向我講解馬匹互相mirror 大家動作是很高難度。

I happened to sit on the first floor that day, next to a pair of British couples who were experienced equestrian enthusiasts. They explained to me each mirror action is very difficult for horses.

此時馬匹還準備就緒,個別表演跳起的高難度動作。

At this point the horse were also ready, difficult moves for each individual performance.